20 Aug 2014

Semi Brogue Derby Construction

At the Workshop |

Here are a few photos showing some of the process of making this pair of shoes.

last_starting

last-hack-saw

last-toe-shape

uppers-quarters-broguing

uppers-outers-pieces

uppers-quarters-construction

uppers-quarters-sewing

uppers-vamps-sewing

uppers-vamps-and-quarters

uppers-quarters

uppers-vamps

uppers-sewing-lining-outers

uppers-finished

insole-attach

insoles-blocking-example

insole-knife

insole-channel

insole-awl

heel-counter

before-lasting

toe-puff-lasting

toe-puffs

welt-stitching

welt-stitching-2

welt-trimming

welt-shank-cover

midsole-trim

midsole-stitching

midsole-closing-channel

sole-lap-stone

sole-attaching

sole-rand

heel-peg-awl

heel-peg-hammer

heel-top-lift

finishing-trim-welt

heel-finishing-hammer

finishing-sole-glass

finishing-heel-edge-paint

finishing-fudge-wheel

finishing-heel-iron

finishing-edge-iron

heel-seat-inner

welt-detail

19 Aug 2014

Chukka Boots Resole

At the Workshop

The Chukka Boots that I made a few years ago returned to the workshop for new soles. The customer said he wore them every day, and it showed. Now they are repaired and ready for more years of life.

before_repair

heel_removed

sole_removed

sole_removed_off

new_sole

new_sole_stitching

refinishing

chukka-resoled

19 Sep 2013

Apron Derby

At the Workshop |

apron-derby

apron-front-derby-2

18 Sep 2013

Bologna Construction

At the Workshop |

Here are a few images showing some of the making of an apron front derby using the bologna construction method.

patern-pieces

sewing-lining

quarters-skiving

topline-quarters

quarters-together

sewing-quarters

stitching-quarters

aprons-folding

upper-apron

apron-stitching

heel-counter

toe-puff

last-toe-puff

rasp-toe

first-lasting

bologna

bologna-before

sock-pre-stitch

stitch-sock

socks-stitched

second-lasting-soon

cork

insole

relasting

heel-stitching

sole-place

cut-channel

stitching-channels

blake-heel

blake-stitch-inside

blake-toe

blake-finished

closing-channel

file-rand

trim-heel-lift

finished-shoes